The hike to Tango Goemba and/or Tango Cheri, located at the beginning of the valley, is wonderful. However, keep in mind that there is nothing else nearby, so you will need to pack a water bottle and a packed lunch.
From Pangri Zampa, entering the valley, the road crosses the Wang Chhu at a place called Begana, near a large golden petroglyph depicting Guru Rinpoche on a rock, and then continues along the east bank of the river. Once you cross the bridge, you will see “self-generating” paintings on the rock representing a fish and a mongoose. You will immediately see the white buildings of Cheri Goemba on the hill in the distance.
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A few kilometers past Begana, 12 km from Thimphu, you will find a road that heads to the right and emerges after a short climb to a parking lot. From there you continue on foot to Tango Goemba: the shorter and steeper route (height difference 280 m) takes you 30 minutes, and the longer but less steep route takes twice as long. This goemba was founded in the 12th century by Lama Gjalwa Lhanampa, but the current building dates from the 15th century and was built by the divine madman, Lama Drukpa Kunley. In 1616, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal visited Tango Goemba and meditated in a nearby cave. Goemba was gifted to Zhabdrung by a descendant of lama Drukpa Kunley, and Zhabdrung himself carved a sandalwood statue of Chenresig for this monastery. Due to its association with Zhabdrung, Tango is a very popular place to mark the anniversary of his death, known as Zhabdrung Kuchoe, in April or May.
The picturesque three-story tower and several surrounding buildings were built in the 18th century by the eighth desi, Druk Rabgye. In the 19th century, Zhabdrung Jigme Chhogyel added a golden roof. Tango is currently used as a university of Buddhist studies for monks and is home to an eminent young trulk (reincarnation lama), Gyalse Rinpoche, believed to be the seventh reincarnation of the fourth desi, Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye (founder of Taktshang Goemba).
There are various chapels to visit, including, on the third floor, the fourth desi’s zimchung (room), where you can receive blessings from his walking stick. Tango (translated as “horse’s head”) takes its name from the natural shape of the rocky outcrop. Leaving the site by descending the shortest route, you can visit the cave where Zhabdrung (Tandin Ney) stopped to meditate on this outcrop.
Shortly after the turn to Tango Goemba, the road ends at Dodina (altitude 2600 m) and at the entrance to the Wangchuk National Park. From there you can walk for about 45 minutes to Cheri Goemba (Cheri Dorji Dhen), Bhutan’s first monastery. The trail initially crosses a beautiful covered bridge over the Wang Chhu (a nice picnic spot) and then climbs quickly to the monastery, where domesticated mountain goats can usually be spotted. Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal built this goemba in 1620 and established the first monastic body here. Inside the upper goemba, an ornate silver chorten holds Father Zhabdrung’s ashes after his body was stolen from Tibet.
The goenkhang, located next door, houses the two patron deities Cheri and Tango. From there you have to face a steep climb (pilgrims walk up it without stopping) to reach the Demon Conquering Monastery, a monastery built on a rocky outcrop where the Zhabdrung managed to overcome the local demons.
Cheri is still an important place for a meditation retreat, with approximately thirty monks staying here for the canonical three years, three months, and three days.
